Romancing the Roads Page 2
My bags were delivered, and decisions for the discoveries of the day were made.
Objective Eye’s Observations—Then: There were no glass tops on the tables—not smart. Soaps were on the vanity but not in the tub area. I was in the tub soaking and found I had no soap. I guess I should have looked before getting in. I later decided that the hair dryers were maybe the best of any hotel, perhaps because my hair “worked” each time I blew it dry at the Windsor Court. (Men, you might not understand this, but women will.)
The Polo Club Lounge (504-522-1994) is upscale and pleasant. The paneled walls are bold but welcoming and reflect in the long mirror behind the handsome bar. Inviting, cozy seating arrangements are well placed. Art masterpieces on the walls, as well as appropriate sculpture, all themed “polo,” decorate the lounge. Piano music subtly fills the air. (This is not true in many lounges.) Have one drink, and you might think you are in London. The Polo Lounge is open for lunch, which, when I was there, included a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. It is cigar friendly, which I presume also includes cigarettes.
The New Orleans Grill is now the Grill Room (504-522-1994). The new general manager and his team have fine-tuned this exquisite room; the food is exceptional, and the ambiance superb. The Times Picayune states, “The Grill Room Reclaims Its Greatness.”
When I was there, my dinner was very good and well served. I thought a few things needed attention, but they need not now be mentioned since all reports state that the Grill Room has been tweaked to perfection.
Windsor Court is an ideal focal point, even if you are not staying there. The New Orleans trolley is most convenient. It stops a couple of blocks from the Windsor Court.
Within walking distance from the Windsor Court is the New Orleans Riverwalk, where a bit of everything can be found.
New Orleans Riverwalk
500 Port of New Orleans Pl.
504-522-1555
www.riverwalkmarketplace.com
Harrah’s, the gambling haunt, is here.
Harrah’s New Orleans
Canal at the River
504-533-6000
www.harrahsneworleans.com
Like all casinos, Harrah’s was noisy, with glaring lights, and sometimes sad. I say the latter because, as you watch the throngs of participants (at any casino) with their eternal look of hope, you know their chances of winning are slim. I am glad for the enjoyment they are having, but saving a few coins would make them real winners. I thought the prices at the restaurant were high.
Within a short distance of the Windsor Court, a shopping area has several upscale stores, like Saks, Gucci, William Sonoma, and more.
Speaking of shopping, the Windsor Court has a very special but pricey boutique.
Trolley Travel
I recommend trolley travel. New schedules and routes may have been implemented after the hurricane. The streetcar fare was $1.25 (then), and the trolley has comfortable wooden seats. The bus driver says, “Lay bill flat and put exact change in hole.” Easy. The ride to my destination took about twenty minutes.
Objective Eye’s Observations: Before the hurricane, from what I saw, New Orleans needed a good washing and garbage removal. It looked like these were being done piecemeal, with Band-Aid fixes.
Tip: Do one block thoroughly and then repeat the scrub on the next block until all are clean. This is a task everyone could participate in, even if done gratis. It’s better than sitting and waiting, because moving the debris benefits all.
Discoveries in Downtown New Orleans
I had researched places to visit in the New Orleans area and added to my “collection” after reading the local paper and brochure. I took the Canal Street trolley—watching the neighborhoods as I went—to the New Orleans Museum of Art.
New Orleans Museum of Art
1 Collins C. Diboll Cir., City Park
504-658-4100
www.noma.org
The museum is about three long city blocks from the trolley stop. The walk would prove worth it, even though it had started to rain—again—and my walking apparatus was weary.
The museum is not huge but a very nice size. The permanent collections are impressive. I was delighted to see a large canvas by Robert Goodnough, an artist I had met in the 1970s in New York. It was like seeing an old friend when I saw his painting. The photography exhibit was excellent.
The Sculpture Garden, a permanent exhibit on five acres is outstanding. The fifty-one sculptures are interspersed throughout the garden. It is a wonderful setting for an impressive experience.
Be sure to check the exhibits and events at the museum and definitely plan to visit.
As I walked back to the trolley stop, I thought the area around the museum seemed nice.
Ogden Museum of Southern Art
925 Camp St.
504-539-9612
www.ogdenmuseum.org
A gem in many ways, this new museum opened to the public in August 2003. The outstanding collections, which range from photography to sculpture to paintings to glass, will be appreciated immediately, but you will enjoy them more and more with each visit. The museum has the proud distinction of having the most comprehensive collection of southern art in the world. Do not miss visiting this impressive, creative, entertaining, and exceptional treasure.
St. Charles Street
St. Charles Street is a mix of beautiful old residences, some shops (see below), and some scruffiness. A streetcar took me up St. Charles to the Convention & Visitors Bureau.
Convention & Visitors Bureau
2020 St. Charles Ave.
800-672-6124
www.neworleanscvb.com
I spent the afternoon with associates from the Convention & Visitors Bureau, and we drove all around. Thank you!
Note: The St. Charles Streetcar is famous and considered a National Historic Landmark. It’s an ideal way to see the city and take a self-guided tour, getting on and off as you like. Be sure to get a one- or three-day pass, so you do not have to pay each time you board.
Prima Donna’s Closet
1206 St. Charles Ave.
504-525-3327
www.primadonnascloset.com
This shop has excellent items. I found a great pair of new, or newly new, Belgian shoes.
Rubensteins
102 St. Charles Ave.
504-581-6666
Rubensteins has sold fine clothing since 1924.
Magazine Street
Magazine Street is six miles long with a little bit of everything—and I do mean everything. From funky to fabulous, sophisticated to superfluous, be it for two- or four-legged animals, you’ll probably find it here. There are items for the petite and the plus, as well as restaurants for all taste buds. It is quite an area. Enjoy, and don’t rush. Here are some of the interesting-looking shops I found on Magazine Street. I don’t have time to really review them, although I did go into each.
Shoe Nami
3118 Magazine St.
504-895-1717
Earth Savers
5501 Magazine St.
504-899-8555
www.earthsaversonline.com
Scriptura
5423 Magazine St.
504-897-1555
www.scriptura.com
Funky Monkey
3127 Magazine St.
504-899-5587
Slim Goodies Diner
3322 Magazine St.
504-891-3447 (EGGS)
Objective Eye’s New Orleans Critique and Observation: New Orleans has so much potential but has let itself go, like a grand dame who hasn’t taken care of herself. She has aged, and there is a lot of room for improvements. Run-down conditions have crept in and are gnawing at the core. Perhaps it has been such a gradual p
rocess that the natives don’t see what has happened. In their mind’s eye, it has always been this way. Before it is too late, they must carefully fine-tune. I repeat that perhaps ill winds can blow some good. With the devastations and challenges of the hurricane, perhaps now New Orleans will become updated, maintaining its original credentials.
Baton Rouge
From New Orleans, the drive to Baton Rouge takes about an hour and a half. It is easy to get onto I-10 and go.
FYI: The name Baton Rouge means “red stick” and was first used by the Indians.
CC’s Community Coffee House was my first stop in Baton Rouge.
CC’s Community Coffee House
multiple locations; check listings on website
www.communitycoffee.com/ccscommunitycoffeehouse.aspx
I had an appointment with H. Norman Saurage III, chairman of the board, and Matt Saurage, director of business development for Community Coffees (www.communitycoffee.com).
Personal Input Suggestion: Always keep your old phonebooks with comments and notes. You never can tell when you might need that old info, as the following evidences.
Years ago when I was on NBC’s The Today Show, I had the good fortune to introduce and recommend Community Coffees. Little did I know then—although I had been given a verbal invitation of “If you are ever in Baton Rouge . . .”—that I would be accepting the invitation years later and meeting part of this well-known Baton Rouge family. What a delightful time I had! And the coffee is absolutely delicious. The two CC’s Coffee Houses that I visited were so nice and female friendly, but then everybody is friendly at Community Coffees.
Here’s a little background on the Community Coffee Company. Over eighty-five years ago, H. N. “Cap” Saurage Sr. began serving his special coffee at his small grocery store. The specially brewed coffee became so popular that the store was closed and full time was spent on coffee. Today, it is the most popular brand in Louisiana, Texas, and the Southeast, and its popularity is growing. Community Coffees can be enjoyed not only in your home but in the CC’s Coffee Houses. You will also find it served in most of the hotels and restaurants in the area. Community Coffee Company is the largest family-owned retail coffee brand in America. Someone said to me, “CC’s coffees were special before specialty coffee became cool.”
Observation: Driving to CC’s and then on to the Sheraton, I thought Baton Rouge was cleaner, more civilized, and, of course, smaller than New Orleans.
Belle of Baton Rouge (formerly the Sheraton)
103 Frances St.
225-242-2600 or 800-676-4847
www.belleofbatonrouge.com
For me, this was not the usual Sheraton. It is on the river, and the Belle of Baton Rouge, a riverboat casino, is at the dock for your gambling convenience. There is direct access from the hotel. A large hotel parking lot is adjacent to the hotel—most convenient.
The newly renovated hotel is large, with three hundred rooms and a very attractive atrium lobby. I now learn that there is a beautiful Atrium Café. The check-in was very friendly. My room was large, well appointed, and clean. I was to discover that the mattress, quilt, sheets, and pillows were very good, and I found two terry robes in the closet—just like in the fancy-schmancy hotels!
I checked out the casino, and it was just as expected. The restored carrier USS Kidd is docked within walking distance and open for touring seven days a week. It’s closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Another thank you to the New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau for telling me about this hotel.
Honeymoon Bungalow Collection
3153 Government St.
225-343-4622
Here you’ll find antiques, collectibles, and objects of curiosity. This well-displayed collection has all sorts of possible treasures. This is not a fast walk-through. I was short on time but purchased an old cookbook and reluctantly had to leave.
Before leaving, I was told by the owner that they also own Time Warp Boutique.
Time Warp Boutique
3001 Government St.
225-377-8550
This is a big store for all your vintage clothing needs.
The Cabin Restaurant
Hwys. 44 and 22, Burnside
225-473-3007
www.thecabinrestaurant.com
It is easy to get caught up in the Louisiana atmosphere while enjoying Cajun-Creole cooking at this well-known restaurant situated in a former slave home. The building is approximately 140 years old and was part of the Monroe Plantation. The original cypress roof can be seen from the inside—together with a few truly ancient cobwebs. The newspaper—stuck to the walls with a mixture of flour and water—served as insulation, and farming implements hang in many nooks, adding to the ambiance. Age has necessitated several upgrades, and some of the additions are other slave buildings. Needless to say, you are stepping back in time at the Cabin, and there is a lot of history here. The menu selections are as authentic as the decor—you will enjoy both as you sip a beverage from a mason jar. The prices are very reasonable and the atmosphere friendly. Don’t miss it! Hours: Monday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Plantations
Visiting a plantation or two or more is an enjoyable must. They will give you insights into living the very gracious, good life.
Houmas House
River Rd., four miles from I-10
225-473-9380
www.houmashouse.com
A jewel! A gem! Upon entering, visitors are given a commemorative hand fan and souvenir beads with a Houmas House medallion—which I immediately put on. There is something about walking around a plantation and fanning yourself. The fan is a great souvenir. On one side is a map of the plantation grounds; on the other side, the language of the fan (I do adore this). The fan says . . .
With handle to lips: Kiss Me.
Carrying in the left hand: I am desirous of acquaintance.
Drawing across the cheek: I love you.
Twirling in right hand: I love another.
Fanning slowly: I am married.
Closing it: I wish to speak with you.
There is more, but this gives you an idea. So civil! Bring back the fan!
This Greek Revival mansion was built in 1812; in 1840 it was attached to the adjacent Latil house. In 1858, John Burnside purchased the property. The twenty thousand acres that made up the plantation grew and processed sugar cane. During the Civil War the Union troops came storming through, but Burnside convinced them that he was an Irishman and a British subject, and the plantation was spared. The plantation remained prosperous until circa 1900, when the lands were sold off and the grand building began to deteriorate. In 1940, Dr. George B. Crozat purchased the house and began restoring it to its 1840 grandeur, adding modern conveniences, since this was to be the doctor’s country getaway—from New Orleans.
In 2003, businessman Kevin Kelly realized his dream of owning Houmas House. He continues to re-create the aura, lifestyle, and plantation grandeur of 1840. Touring the house and the magnificent gardens is a grand experience—even if there are too many degrees of Louisiana heat. Use your fan!
There is so much to see and learn at Houmas House. Judy Davis is a great guide who injects life into the tour and your visit. She closes by singing one of the old hymns. Fantastic! Her tour speeches should be taped. The house was featured in the movie Hush . . . Hush, Sweet Charlotte, starring Bette Davis. A room is dedicated to her and the movie. A unique feature of Houmas House versus other plantations in the area is its two symmetrical garçonnières. What are garçonnières, you ask? (Publicizing this may start a fad.) Unique to Louisiana plantations, garçonnières housed the adolescent sons of plantation owners. Those at Houmas House are now used as public areas where you can enjoy a cold beverage
before touring. They also are perfect chapels for small weddings. A lot of plans for the plantation are on the drawing boards, including an antique shop, a tavern and restaurant, and a Victorian greenhouse botanical garden, which will offer cuttings and samplings from rare and exotic plants on the property.
There is so much to see, admire, and learn at Houmas House. You will definitely enjoy. Admission is approximately $20 per adult. Group rates are available, and the property is wheelchair accessible. Hours: Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
2010 Addendum: I spoke with Kevin Kelly, who, it is obvious from his voice, is a very proud owner. A teahouse has been opened. The surrounding gardens, fountains, ponds, and Japanese bridge are beautiful. The gardens are being touted as among the best in the South. The teahouse, at a twenty-foot elevation, overlooks the plantation. Visit the Turtle Bar for your choice of libation and then the award-winning Latil’s Landing Restaurant (225-473-9380). Reservations are required. Hopefully I will see all of these new additions when on tour. It all sounds fabulous.
Shopping
Bella Bella
3064 Perkins Rd.
225-343-2352
This is an attractive shop for fashionistas. Owner Elise Decoteau now has two other shops It’s best to call for directions (252-923-1505 or 225-757-0090).
Imelda’s
7865 Jefferson Hwy.
225-923-3737
Owned by Sally Fowler, Imelda’s has lots of wonderful shoes—some, of course, pricey. This shop is open every day of the week. Check for hours. I saw on the card that Imelda’s has two other stores in Lafayette and Shreveport.
Personal Input to Share
Via Moda
This great little store has shoes, pocketbooks, and small accessories, all sensibly priced. The owner was so bubbly and friendly, and when she learned I was coming to visit, she made a large bag with Curves on the Highways (a previous book of mine) embroidered on the front. Was that not the most original? So very thoughtful! What a super surprise. I admit I found a pink and orange jelly bag on sale that I had to have. Sadly, I called to verify some details and find that the shop has closed, hopefully only temporarily.
Real Life: I share this cute story, which could happen to anyone—especially young mothers. While I was at Via Moda, a young woman ran in. She was obviously dressed up for an event—except for her shoes. It turned out that her child had hidden or misplaced one of the shoes that she was going to wear to a wedding that afternoon. The owner, as well as everyone in the store, pitched in and found her the perfect replacement pair—not too expensive—that she could wear with lots of different kinds of attire. Oh, the trials of wonderful motherhood.