Romancing the Roads Read online

  Dining

  Coffee Call

  3132 College Dr., Ste. F

  225-925-9493

  This is the spot for breakfast. Whoa! Just try to set limits as to how much of a standard Louisiana breakfast—beignets and café au lait—you are going to consume. It’s not easy. Coffee Call is a Baton Rouge landmark and gathering place for all Homo sapiens. The Cannatella family opened the business twenty-seven years ago. It’s delicious, superclean, and below reasonable in price, with great atmosphere. Can I rave more?

  Juban’s Creole Restaurant

  3739 Perkins Rd.

  225-346-8422

  www.jubans.com

  Acclaimed as one of 1984’s best new restaurants by Esquire, Juban’s, I am glad to emphasize, is owned by two women. Yes! The exceptional menu made choosing what to eat difficult. My selections included

  Cajun popcorn: This dish consists of fried crawfish tails served with spicy cocktail sauce. Don’t get put off by what Cajun popcorn is. It is delicious.

  Filet Juban: The dish of beef tenderloin with maître d’hôtel butter, crabmeat, and béarnaise sauce, was absolutely delicious. I think I split a small salad, and dessert was sweet and decadent.

  FYI: One of Juban’s signature dishes is Hallelujah Crab, which consists of fried seafood-stuffed soft-shell crab topped with sauce creolaise.

  Prices are standard high-end. The atmosphere is upscale casual and definitely friendly. Juban’s is located in the Bocage Shopping Center, a small but upscale collection of shops, and after dinner I walked around and checked them out.

  Paper N Things

  7649 Jefferson Hwy.

  225-924-7725

  What a delightful shop. I purchased some very “me” cards. There were many selections. I discovered, as I spoke with owner Stacey Miremont, that the store does deluxe complimentary gift wrapping. How helpful!

  Beausoleil

  7731 Jefferson Hwy.

  225-926-1172

  www.beausoleilrestaurantandbar.com

  Also in the Bocage Shopping Center, this delightful place—then called the Silver Spoon—served a delicious, sensibly priced lunch. The Beausoleil is owned and operated by Michael Boudreaux, Jeff Comaway, Nathan Gresham, and Kenny Juban.

  Calandro’s Supermarket

  4142 Government St.

  225-383-7815

  12732 Perkins Rd.

  225-767-6659

  www.calandros.com

  In case groceries are needed, I recommend this store, also in the Bocage Shopping Center. It supposedly carries great cheeses, meats, and the like.

  The more I saw of Baton Rouge, the more I liked it. I would enjoy returning and discovering more of this Louisiana city. I saw several standard shopping malls. This is a university town, so you are going find a great deal of clothing and items for the college life.

  The next day held serendipities of many sorts. I had until 3 p.m., when I would be driving to the next destination. It was Saturday, and I walked around the Main Street Market at Fifth and Main.

  Main Street Market

  501 Main St.

  225-267-5060

  www.mainstreetmarketbr.org

  The market was in full swing. This is definitely a place to go for everything freshly harvested, preserved, or handmade. The ad card states, “Downtown’s Freshest Address.” That seemed accurate to me. I would not hesitate to “go to market alone.” Everyone was very friendly.

  Nottoway Plantation & Resort

  31025 Hwy. 405, White Castle

  866-668-6929

  www.nottoway.com

  The drive from Baton Rouge to Nottoway is about one and a half hours. The drive through rural areas puts you in a plantation frame of mind. I found the famed historic Nottoway to be everything that you could ever imagine a plantation to be. It has bed-and-breakfast accommodations. Here are my observations about my Nottoway Plantation experience. I then include what has been added to this most special plantation, which happened to be the largest remaining antebellum mansion in the South with overnight accommodations and restaurant.

  As you approach via the long and impressive driveway, this magnificent, enormous, white, Greek Revival mansion looms. One parks in the lot in front and walks into the mansion. A small check-in desk is manned by a competent young man who also helps with my luggage.

  All overnight guests, upon arrival, are told the schedule of the complimentary tour and informed that a full plantation breakfast in the Breakfast Room will be awaiting them in the morning! Go for this wonderful breakfast. Lunch will not be a consideration.

  I recommend a walk around the gardens and up to the levee. The tour of the plantation will be the next morning after breakfast, but all overnight guests can walk through the main house by themselves at night (more on this below).

  I was shown to my room, which immediately took me to a place back in time. The four-poster bed, the decor, the ambiance, the carafe of port with sparkling glasses on the table—I wanted to be wearing a full hoop-skirted dress with a corseted waist.

  Dinner was scheduled for 7 p.m. in Randolph Hall. I had no idea what I was to discover and so thoroughly enjoy. I walked through a small garden to Randolph Hall and was greeted by a hostess. Almost immediately, a chef joined us.

  Although chef Johnny “Jambalaya” Percle has retired from Nottoway, he is still involved in his culinary endeavors. I will relate my experience, which was special.

  Of course, I let him choose my meal and when I could not decide what to choose chef gave me a sample of each. The Zydeco Salad was so crisp and flavorful that I didn’t want to finish it too quickly.

  The entrée was a sample of two: a shrimp specialty and trout crisped just right, resulting in one of the best trout dishes I have ever tasted. Dessert was a sampling of several decadent delights. My notes do not seem to include a description of them. I must have been so plied with the outrageous selections that I was too weak to write. With a cup of “guaranteed” decaf coffee, I rate this meal as pretty darn perfect. Thank you!

  Randolph Hall is now for meetings and special events. There is the Mansion Restaurant on the main level of the plantation. Chef Daniel Thompson is at the helm. There is Le Café in the original warming kitchen. Here you can find a collection of decadent delights, creative drinks, and more. Although I have not seen the latest additions, I would not hesitate to say that from all my investigations, everything is only first-rate and done with care and talent.

  Two special features:

  Overnight guest are allowed to go into the big house, walk around, look, and enjoy. I decided to do that, but I confess I was a smidgeon hesitant as I opened the large heavy door and entered the main hall. I felt dwarfed by the largeness of all that surrounded me. What an experience to walk around, alone, in this magnificent, huge plantation. I didn’t meet any ghosts, but I think I did sense a spirit or two. I wondered what it would have been like to be a child on this plantation or the mistress of the manor. You can imagine life in a different time and play mind games as you take your private tour.

  The spacious rooms are truly grand, and feeling dwarfed is to be expected. The interior design and furnishings are perfection to the max. The dining room table is set. The bedrooms are readied. The living room is inviting.

  Four rooms at the plantation can be reserved to spend the night.

  Suggestion: Visit Nottoway Plantation on the Internet (www.nottoway.com). Even via the computer screen you will be in awe.

  FYI: When the draperies hang full and long to the floor, it is called “puddling” and denotes wealth.

  Nottoway History

  Virginian John Hampden Randolph designed and built Nottoway for his wife, Emily Jane, and their (ultimately) ten children. How did he get to Louisiana? His father had been appointed a federal co
urt judge in Mississippi, and the family had moved from Virginia. Randolph married Emily Liddell from a family of wealth. The young couple and children eventually moved to Forest Home, a beautiful plantation. John Randolph decided to change from raising cotton to planting sugar cane. He was extremely successful and decided to build a home befitting his prosperity and station in life. In 1855, he purchased 400 acres and 620 acres of swamp. Part of the property faced the Mississippi, which allowed for watching the steamboats and showboats. Not a penny was spared on the construction of his new home.

  The main house has 3 floors, 64 rooms, 6 interior staircases, 165 doors, 200 windows, 15.5-foot ceilings, 11-foot doors, and a total of 53,000 square feet of living space. John Randolph’s favorite room was the semicircular ballroom, which was white to show off the natural beauty of women. He put a mirror in the ballroom so that women could see if their hoops or their ankles were showing.

  This gives just an idea of what went into this palatial plantation. Many of the original furniture positions are what you see as you visit each room. When the Civil War erupted, John Randolph went with many slaves to Texas and grew cotton to keep solvent. Emily maintained Nottoway as the surrounding area was ravaged. We learn of the events, struggles, and happenings that the family at Nottoway endured from daughter Cornelia’s diary. I reiterate that it was a woman, Emily Jane, who kept and preserved the property. After her husband’s death, she sold this magnificent home. It has had several owners since, but today its owner is doing it proud and pleasing the Randolphs. Visit and, even better, stay for a night.

  Nottoway has undergone major renovations and now has added a spa to the property. Prices range from about $135 to $275 per night, which includes the carafe of refreshment when you arrive, the guided tour, the prebreakfast coffee and hot muffins delivered to your room, and a full plantation breakfast. I discovered how much I like plantation life, but, alas, back I headed into the modern world.

  Lafayette (Population Approximately 110,000)

  Note: It was a little difficult to find the various destinations in Lafayette recommended to me as there are restrictions on signage. It was not my imagination that signs were few or very small. Many agree.

  It was the Fourth of July. Traffic was not bad to Lafayette. I had been told to go first to the Jean Lafitte Acadian Cultural Center operated by the National Park Service and then on to Vermilionville, where I would visit the replicated exhibits of life in the Attakapas area between 1765 and 1890.

  Jean Lafitte Acadian Cultural Center

  501 Fisher Rd.

  337-232-0789

  www.nps.gov/jela

  Vermilionville

  300 Fisher Rd.

  866-992-2968

  www.vermilionville.org

  I was short on time, but I did make total rounds and quick visits of the above. Both were informative and interesting. Leaving one of the exhibits, I heard live music coming from one of the more modern buildings. Lo and behold, I found a lot of happy people dancing to great music (my type of place!). I don’t know if there is a name for the big barn of a building or even the event—maybe it was a Fourth of July celebration—but it certainly was a happy happening.

  Bois des Chenes B&B

  338 N. Sterling St.

  337-233-7816

  www.boisdechenes.com

  By 5:30 p.m. I had found Bois des Chenes. My immediate first impression was blah, but I was quickly proved so very incorrect. Upon arrival, I was greeted by Coerte Voorhies, who showed me to my accommodations—a cottage away from the main house. He informed me of the property’s history and how Bois des Chenes had hosted so many dignitaries, and he said his wife looked forward to meeting me in the morning at breakfast, after which I was scheduled to go on a swamp tour.

  The accommodations were most pleasant and comfortable, and being in a separate “abode,” the Carriage House, added to the many pluses. My room, like the other accommodations, was furnished with antiques of Louisiana French origin. The television was hidden in an armoire, and I noticed a small refrigerator in the room. Nice!

  The next morning I walked to the main house, where I met Marjorie Voorhies, a most special hostess, who appeared from the kitchen. We discussed the pending breakfast, which already filled the air with sweet aromas. Breakfast consisted of French toast with Louisiana cane syrup (also served were strawberry and maple syrups) and boudin, which is Acadian sausage (ingredients include pork, rice, and spices). This too can be topped with the cane syrup. There was an apple garnish in the shape of a red rooster and, of course, Louisiana French drip coffee. I enjoyed trying new items, and breakfast was delicious and conversations were scintillating. Marjorie talked about antiquing, and Coerte V. filled in, revealing that he is a semiretired geologist. He was well versed in history, geography, and southern Louisiana’s many ethnic cultures. I just learned that he also guides swamp tours.

  FYI: “Cajun” is the pronunciation of the word “Acadian” when said in French.

  The Atchafalaya Experience

  337-261-5150

  www.theatchafalayaexperience.com

  I discovered that the Atchafalaya Experience swamp tour would be led by Kim Voorhies, son of Marjorie and Coerte. I wasn’t quite sure what I was getting into, but I was glad he was the son of, and was himself, retired military. We met at Bois des Chenes, and in the short drive to the boat, I discovered he was extremely knowledgeable about the marshes and swamps, ecosystems, and environment—as well as politics. The Atchafalaya is North America’s largest river swamp. Arriving dockside, we put the boat over and headed out. Everything that you have ever seen on a screen or in pictures about a swamp, you will see in real life as you tour. One should definitely take the swamp tour. I was amazed at the debris that is tossed into the swamp. Kim, I discovered, always stops and picks up the trash. I was not to be left sitting on my duff, and I readily joined in. We accumulated so much. I was flabbergasted and took a picture for proof. I will remember this wonderful swamp tour. You too will see for real what has been featured over and over in print and on the Discovery Channel as well as foreign TV channels. You must call for reservations not only for Bois des Chenes but for the swamp tour.

  Prejean’s

  3480 NE Evangeline Trwy. (I-49), North Lafayette

  337-896-3247

  www.prejeans.com

  This restaurant is definitely casual, definitely friendly, and definitely Cajun. One notation about the restaurant states that it is a Louisiana legend. The place was fairly crowded, and music from a live band filled the air. The manager took me in tow, seated me, and suggested what I should have for dinner. I reiterated what was becoming my stock dining statement: “I would rather taste a little of a lot than have regular portions.”

  Dinner was good, and the chef tiny-portioned my meal. (I use “tiny” loosely.) Cajun cooking is heavy. The samples I had at Prejean’s were no exception. I do not agree with all of the enthusiastic food critiques. The food was good. The friendliness, casualness, and happy atmosphere surpassed my culinary experience, but it could have just been me. Hours: Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, 7 a.m. to 10 or 11 p.m.

  Thoughts about Lafayette

  I enjoyed myself. I have a strong feeling that I would have discovered a whole different Lafayette if I had not been there on the Fourth of July, when so much was closed. What comes to mind about Lafayette is the friendliness, the music, the dancing, and all that I enjoyed at Bois de Chenes.

  Arkansas

  Besides highway signs, there’s another way to tell that you are in Arkansas—the roads aren’t the best, especially from Memphis to Texarkana. Just be prepared to slow down often. (At least, that is the way I found the road the times I have been driving there.)

  The following are some amusing and factual observations as I drove I-40 from the Oklahoma border and into Little Rock. Enjoy!

 
Alma, Arkansas, proclaims itself the “Spinach Capital of the World,” but then, so does Crystal City, Texas. Go figure. Alma boasts an eight-foot-tall statue of Popeye. Popeye-brand spinach comes from Alma.

  Pig Trail Scenic Byway (exit 35): I had to look this one up, since “pig” and “scenic” are not words that one normally sees together. It turns out that this scenic route (which I’ve heard can be spectacular) reminded people of trails created by pigs wandering through the woods. (If you say so!)

  Toad Suck Park at Conway: Huh? Was this sign for real? I later had to look this one up too. Apparently, theories about the origin of the name range from an early mispronunciation to the fact that the bargemen on the Arkansas River “sucked on booze/moonshine bottles until they swelled up like toads.” That’s just a little extraneous info.

  Little Rock

  Hotels

  Peabody Little Rock

  3 Statehouse Plz.

  501-906-4000

  www.peabodylittlerock.com

  Whenever you hear the name Peabody Hotel, you know that you are going to be staying in a most special place augmented with duck quacks. Two other main Peabody hotels are located in Memphis, Tennessee, and Orlando, Florida. The Peabody in Memphis is “wonderfully good” and a delight to visit (see the Tennessee chapter for details). The Peabody Little Rock is a AAA Four Diamond property situated in the expanding and vibrant River Market District (more on this below).

  A recent $40 million renovation of the hotel’s 418 rooms didn’t overlook a thing. The main lobby is impressive and always seems abuzz as appropriate piano music plays in the background. The decor is more art deco than traditional, with tall, stately columns sectioning off the large open spaces.